Showing posts with label Bedroom. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bedroom. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Curtained Bed

Happy Tuesday friends!  Wanted to pop in today to talk about bedrooms - most specifically about curtained beds.

Often, curtains surrounding a bed is associated with the old fashioned canopy bed of the 80's - oh what the eight-year-old version of myself would have given for a canopy bed... unfortunately, that's not quite what I'm referring to.  

I'm referring to the revamped version of the traditional canopy bed - the new version where the curtains meet the ceiling, and cocoon the bed while remaining fully detached from any bed frame.

Still not sure what I'm referring to??


See what I mean?  

The curtains are actually connected to a track or curtain rod that is attached to the ceiling, and these new curtained beds offer the softness and same cozy effect as the more traditional canopy bed, without the closed-in, borderline claustrophobic feeling that they sometimes give.


I'm 100% in love with our upholstered headboard, but I do really love the look of these - especially with the white or lighter shades in the curtains.  

So clean, and light feeling, and while a canopy bed can feel a little stuffy, and overly traditional, these actually feel quite modern.


What I love most, is that they seem relatively easy to install, and inexpensive.

They would be fabulous in a studio apartment, for separating the "bedroom" from common living spaces, or even in an open loft space, where it can be really tricky to carve out each "room" from a wide open floorplan.


The other thing about using curtains to flank a bed that I really love, is that you can save some serious money on the bed itself.  

Headboards and bed frames are really pricey, so this would be a really great option for those on a budget, who are looking to make a large impact in their bedroom without spending a fortune.


All you need are some sturdy curtain rods, curtains (or sheers even), and a standard bed-frame, box spring, and mattress.  

I'd also encourage the use of a dust ruffle to hide the less than attractive metal bed frame - something simple like the one in the photo above would be perfect.


On average, the cost of a queen size headboard or bed would range from $800 to upwards of several thousand dollars, whereas if you shop smart for the materials you'd need for a curtained off bed, you could pull off this project for less than $200 easily.  Depending on the hardware, you could even swing it for less than $150.  

What's great is that the curtains take the place of a headboard, footboard, and bed frame, and make it feel really grand, and expensive.  If I were to do this, I'd probably stick with lighter fabric for the curtains, but there are several different styles for this that I've seen and like.  The trick is to find curtain panels long enough to go from floor to ceiling - if the curtains are too short, it's a no-go.

Ikea is a fabulous source for curtains - some of my favorites are these curtains for the lighter linen look.  I actually have them hanging in our living room (white) and dining room (light grey), and I just love them.  They are thick without being too thick, they are quite long (98" which would accommodate an 8' ceiling - add curtain rings for extra length) and they have a really nice organic texture.  

This person actually used the Aina for this exact project (link here):
 **I think I might make the curtain rods just slightly longer so the curtains hang straight down... they look a bit short which is resulting in a bit of a "leaned" feel...

I also like these heavier velvet curtains for a deeper, cozier feel.... and hey, if they are good enough for Emily Henderson, they're good enough for the rest of us!


These curtains would be really fun in a child's bedroom flanking a bed... 


Aren't they just darling?

I'm also no expert, but I feel like they'd create a really peaceful place for nap time.  Heck, maybe I'll start adopting the daily nap if I got to sleep in a light and airy, curtained off bed.

What do you think? Would you ever try out a curtained bed?  

It seems like it would be so peaceful to be able to close the curtains, and for light sleepers who are easily bothered by light, this seems like an ideal solution to me!

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Gallery Wall Surrounding the TV


Look who was unable to unearth the camera from the many boxes still piled up in our house!!

Woot woot!

It really is the small victories in life - right??  

Well, I found the camera last night, and snapped a few pictures of the gallery wall in our bedroom this morning before getting ready for work (so ignore my reflection in the TV where I'm in my robe... love that robe btw).


As you can see, I've made huge progress since the last updates I'd posted in my "how to hang a gallery wall" post but while the frames are in place, the gallery wall is far from finished...

Want to know why???

Look closer... 

See it now??  Some of the art is hanging the wrong way... upside down, sideways... and some of it is seasonal from Christmas!  Yep, there is one reading "Deck the Halls" hung upside down.  It drives me absolutely nuts. Sadly, Kris didn't even notice it.  Men!

I'm in the process of pulling together new pieces to hang, that will be more cohesive together.  I want pieces that bring out the pretty blue of the dresser (which by the way photographed REALLY blue, but is more deep teal in real life).  I also want some more color, and lots of bright white.

Some of the prints and paintings will stay... specifically the black and white surf photograph, and a few of the Clare Elsaesser pieces that I still adore.


Originally, I'd been considering spraying all the frames either all gold, all black, or all white, but I'm kind of liking the mix of black and gold...

What do you think?


The two stacked frames in the middle (top) seem a little too thick to me, but perhaps with a wider white matte, and more simple art they won't look so clunky... the pieces that are in there right now are really dark, and next to each other look like too much.


Overall, I'm really happy with how this wall (and this room) is coming together.  It's so light and bright, and the gallery wall takes away from the big looming TV that was the lone ranger on that huge empty wall for so long.

The woven hampers flanking the TV and dresser are also new to the room, fill out the wall, and help us (aka help me) keep all the clothes off the floor.

The hampers are from Target. They are amazing.  A little pricey (roughly $50 each) but worth every penny.  They are out in the room, and the woven texture keeps them from being an eyesore.  I actually think they are really pretty! And not to go on and on about the hampers, but they have these super handy detachable liners, so when it's time to do laundry, you just un-snap them and carry the whole sack to the washing machine.  Genius!

Anyways....


Aside from swapping out the art, and a few of the mattes, I was also thinking that I may also tweak the layout a bit more.

That's the thing about building a gallery wall... you REALLY have to be flexible as you hang up pieces.  You'll find that frames you thought you liked in a certain spot don't look right once they are hung, and that certain spots need something larger, smaller, or nothing at all.  Blank space is as important in a gallery wall as coverage, and slight asymmetry feels purposeful as opposed to aiming for perfect symmetry and having a frame hanging slightly off.  Living with it for a while has really helped me see what I want to move, but it's really minimal.  Remember the original layout plan?


I don't want to say our gallery wall has a completely different layout, but it's definitely different from the original.  There are a few more frames (the mock up didn't take into account scale accurately... both the scale of the frames and the scale of that enormous wall.

To put it in perspective, some of the large frames that look relatively small here are 27"x20"... not small at all!


More pictures to come once we have hung all our new pieces, but I felt I owed you all a little taste of what's been happening in there...

Happy Thursday!
xoxo

Monday, February 24, 2014

DIY Upholstered Headboard Tutorial

So... I've sat on this post for just about a year now...

Sorry about that.


You've all seen the glamour shots of my beautiful upholstered headboard, but it took many comments, posts, and private emails from you guys asking me for a tutorial, to get me to put together my upholstered headboard tutorial!!!!!

I've conquered my laziness, and prevailed.

For anyone new to the blog, let me rewind a bit... before starting this project (which let me just add, was one of the biggest DIY undertakings I've done to date) I'd obsessed for months and months about having an upholstered headboard in our bedroom.  Pinterest was my best friend, and for a while all I was pinning was lovely pictures of bedrooms with overstuffed, soft upholstered headboards.  I loved them all - thick velvet headboards, classic linen headboards, dark headboards, light headboards, tufted headboards, rounded headboards.... headboards with nailheads... headboards with pattern... headboards with detailed cut-outs and sloping sides.

Getting a new bed last year (an upgrade to a California King for my tall honey-bunch) was the catalyst for this project - our brand new shiny bed needed to be decked out, and so the hunt for a headboard started.

To say I felt defeated as I shopped online for an upholstered headboard is an understatement.  They are freaking expensive, people!!  For a California King, we were faced with a thousand dollar price range - especially once shipping and delivery surcharges were factored in.  No way.

After coming up empty handed, I turned to the internet for inspiration, and after reading a few headboard tutorials, I was on board to try my hand at making my own!  This was around the time when I turned to my lovely parents for assistance, so this DIY project became a family affair.

Let's dive right in, shall we??

It started with this picture:

It isn't the sexiest thing, but it really helped me determine what shape I wanted.

Belgrave... for me it was all about Belgrave (and with a strapping name like that, why wouldn't it be??)

Actually, I wanted something like Cavendish or Grosvenor originally, but decided to KISS (keep it simple stupid... remember that??) and that a simple design = less of a chance to royally mess this up.

Once the shape was decided on, my mom and I went shopping.  I want to brag for a second... I am the LEAST decisive person ever, but when we walked into the fabric store, and I spotted this fabric it was all over.  Done.  Easiest decision of my life.


It has a beautiful, rough weave, and it's the perfect color of greige (grey / beige) with nubby bits here and there.

Not only will it conceal dirt fairly well in the long run, but the rough weave promises that it will never look like I was trying (and failing) to "match" other fabrics in the bedding to it (btw, every time I type "rough weave" I can't help but think of something like this)

Anyway...

We also ordered us some of these from Beacon Fabrics:

It's a roll of nailhead trim.  Best. Decision. Ever.

The trim comes as one long strand, and every 5th nailhead or so, you hammer a real nailhead through to anchor it down.  The trim comes in different colors / finishes - we went with the French Natural, and I love it.

Initially, my mom tried to convince me that we should do individual nail heads.

Cannot. Fathom.

We will get to that later... but trust me you guys, nailhead trim is the way to go unless you have about a bazillion hours to kill and the patience of a saint.  As it was, I almost lost my s*** installing the trim so I can't even imagine the individual nail heads.

Sorry.  It still brings up a lot of emotion thinking about the nailheads.

Ok, moving on.

What else do you need for this project besides fabric and nailheads??

- A big piece of cardboard
- An even bigger piece of plywood (and beware, plywood is heavier than you think!)
- A friend with muscles to help lift and carry heavy plywood
- Batting
- Rubber mallet
- Spray adhesive
- Jigsaw
- Sandpaper
- Staple Gun
- Pencil
- Upholstery Backing
- Straight Edge

If you want to attach legs, you'll need a few extra items...
- Solid wood (my dad used two pieces of pine)
- Wood Stain (for the legs)
- Bolts (we used 4)
- Bolt cutter
- Industrial Strength File
- Patience

Step one - decide how high you want your headboard to be.  It was incredibly helpful for me to visually see a mocked up headboard behind our bed to determine height with the pillows all stacked up in front of it.  It also helped me determine how big and at what angle I wanted the cut outs to be.

So our bedroom looked really classy for a week or so with this piece of cardboard behind the bed:

Once I decided on my own we agreed on how big the cutouts would be, and how tall it would stand (for reference, I think I went with 68" tall, and about 5" wider than our mattress), we went for it.

Step 2 - trace cutouts and width on the plywood.

Cut it down to size using a sweet jigsaw.


Side note: I love how easy it was to type out that step.  It's easy guys!  Just cut it down to size. With your power tools.  That you hopefully know how to use!


That step actually should have said, "Dad, put your safety glasses on before using the saw!!!"


Ok now they are on... now that the saw is off.  Awesome.

Anyway - I have the best dad, who knocked these cuts out in like .2 seconds.  Luckily no eyes were lost or injured in this process.  Bad dad.

Anyway, at this point get out the sandpaper and make sure all the edges are smooth.

It's also at this point that if you're attaching legs to the bottom of the headboard, that you attach said legs.  If you're in our family and seek perfection in everything, then you stain the legs a few days ahead of time, so that they are pretty (thanks Dad!)


Why attach legs? you might wonder...

Because I wanted the most massive headboard in the world... no because I wanted it to stand higher than our pillows instead of getting hidden behind them once the bed was properly made.  Plywood comes as a standard 4x8' and so with just 4 feet in height, it needed a little extra from the legs.

This is also a step where you want to be sure to measure everything well!

That should almost go unsaid, and be a general rule in all DIY projects (I can just hear my dad say, "Measure twice, cut once") but here's why it's crucial to be sure on your measurements when attaching the legs...

This headboard is really big and heavy, so to be sure it was steady behind the bed, we wanted to anchor it to the bed frame (you CAN anchor it to the wall, but because we rent, wanted to avoid putting massive holes in the wall, attaching the headboard to the bed is key).  Long story short, the legs need to line up with the bed frame, so make note of the bed frame measurements before attaching the legs.


Once the legs are bolted on, we cut down the extra length of the bolts, and smoothed the nub down as much as possible with these tools...


Not sure what the technical term for this tool is (industrial strength emery board?), but it's basically a huge nail file for metal.  Pretend you're doing manicures.


Ok one more glamour shot of the pretty stained legs...


Gorgeous.

Now that you've got the base built, and legs attached, take the headboard inside - it's time to cover it in batting and fabric.

Roll out the batting and bust out the spray adhesive.

Because we're a family of Type A personalities, we had to steam the batting first.  This is entirely optional (but satisfying).


Once the batting is smoothed out from being bunched up in the package, spray the headboard (the front side) with spray adhesive and smooth the batting from the center to the edges.

The excitement around spraying the adhesive is optional.


Once the batting is attached to the front, you'll want to pull it tight on the edges and staple it to the back.  Super simple.

On the curved corners, we cut the batting like this so we could wrap it around the curve nice and tight - no lumps.



See how that works?  Staple it down so it's secure, and use a hammer to tap in the staples that didn't sink all the way in.  Cut off the excess batting around the staples.


Repeat this process with the batting another time for a second layer of batting - this will make for a nice cushy headboard.

You'll notice I didn't say anything about foam.

We didn't use foam on the headboard, which is why we wrapped it with the batting twice.  The plywood is really thick, and at first I was really pushing to use foam, but since we weren't going to do any tufting (that seemed a bit ambitious for first timers) the foam would have made the headboard too thick to have nailhead.

In the end, no foam for us.  Just batting.  If you are going for a tufted headboard, you'll of course need to use foam, but since we weren't doing tufting, the batting is plenty cushy.  I believe the batting we used was the high loft as well (in case you were wondering).

At this point, the headboard should really be taking shape! It's going to feel like you are on the home-stretch...  but you're not.

Not yet... it still has to be covered with the fabric (and the nailhead trim is still waiting for you).

The obvious next step is to covering the headboard with the fabric - be sure that your fabric is ironed.  To have wrinkles would be a shame after all this work.  We found it was easiest to lay the ironed fabric face-down, lay the headboard face-down over the fabric, and start stapling from there.

Following the diagram below will be the easiest for you to follow where to staple and in what order:


The order goes like this:
  1. Secure the sides
  2. Secure the top and bottom
  3. Secure the curved areas.

Once the core staples are in that hold the fabric to the board, we picked the headboard up and stood it upright to finish the stapling like this.  Having my parents hold it steady while I stapled allowed us to see where the fabric needed to be tighter, etc.

As you go, use as many staples as you want - go to town with the staple gun in fact.  You don't want the fabric moving anywhere.

After everything was secured, I went back in between all the staples for another round - in the end my staples were about 2 inches apart - one inch in some cases, especially around the corners.

For the curved areas, I used the same method of cutting the fabric towards the board as I did for the batting - this just really helped it hug the curve with no bunching.


For the areas around the legs, just do your best - we turned it under and secured with a staple, but keep in mind, no one is going to see this area pretty much ever.


We forgot that no one would ever see the legs, and ended up trimming it out all pretty with silk tape and nailheads.

Go figure.


We're Type A, and can't help it! It's really an illness!

Ok, not to get ahead of myself here... the next step to the headboard is appending the nailhead trim.

I am not going to lie, this was the hardest part, and probably the most time consuming, and frustrating for us because we made a few mistakes (which you can easily avoid).  This is where a straight-edge, two pairs of hands, and an extra set of eyes come in very handy.

All I can say is thank god we got the nailhead trim instead of trying to hammer in individual nailheads.

Ok, so this doesn't take much explanation, but the process here is to lay the nailhead trim down, and use the rubber mallet to pound in a nail head every few beads.  DO NOT USE A HAMMER - you NEED a rubber mallet otherwise all your nailheads will be dented.

When you unravel the trim it should look like this:

There's a little hole every fourth bead, so you know exactly where each individual nail will go.  Pretty foolproof.  The tricky part is keeping the row running straight.  We used the straight edge and a pencil to lightly draw where the row would go, but use this only as a LOOSE guide.  We layed the nailhead on the line we'd drawn, not realizing that the fabric shifted a bit as we went, so the row started trailing off at a very slight diagonal.

A word from the wise: step back every few nailheads and look at the headboard from a few feet back.

Up close, it looked like we were going straight across the top, but standing back we realized we went off course.  Save yourself the pain because once it's pounded in - especially to plywood - it's VERY hard to get it off.

If you keep these tips in mind, go slow, check your work from a few feet back, and be patient, you won't have to go back and redo all your hard work (like we did).  It SHOULD be easy!

A few other things I wanted to point out...

The trim had really sharp edges! My dad cut himself numerous times on it, and was nearly banished from this project after bleeding on my brand new headboard.

I forgave him.  But only because he's my dad.

Also, the trim is really easy to bend, so it you're working on a headboard with curved details, fear not, you can just bend it around very easily.

Finally, it's relatively thin, so while we used heavy duty snippers to cut it, you could actually even use normal scissors.  It wasn't that thick.  Promise.


At this point, you're basically finished - the headboard is cut, legs attached, padding and fabric stapled down, and nailhead applied, but we did finish it off with one final step - which I should add is entirely optional - we finished the back with upholstery backing.

It's super cheap, and usually comes in black.

We cut it to size and stapled it over the back to cover the raw plywood, and to cover all the unfinished fabric edges and staples.


It really finishes it off, and after spending a full day on this sucker, we were going for perfection!

I mean just look at those glorious nailheads!


And that fabric!!  LOVE!!


So that's it my friends - the full tutorial on how our DIY headboard came to be.


It's been almost a year since we built it, and it's holding up SO WELL!  I mean it's pretty much still brand new in my mind, and we could not be more happy!

The double layer of batting makes it really cushy to lean against when we're reading in bed, the nailhead trim adds a little extra detail, and I am still so in love with the shape of the Belgrave.

For the seasoned DIY'ers out there, this project will be a cinch, and even for us first timers, it wasn't so bad (minus the frustrations with the nailhead being perfectly straight).

If there's anything I missed in my tutorial, or any other questions, just post them below or email me!  I'm happy to add more detail, or answer any questions you have if you're attempting this on your own.

Monday, November 4, 2013

Hotel Bedding DIY

Our bed got a mini update last week - nothing earth shattering, but a definite improvement...

It's probably not very noticeable to most people, but we FINALLY got some euro shams for our bed, and I did a little hotel bedding DIY on them.

I've been wanting actual hotel bedding pretty much since we moved in here a few years ago, but its SO expensive.  Even just 3 euro shams from Restoration Hardware run several hundred dollars, and I was not about to pay that for just a few decorative pillow cases.  Thanks, but no thanks.

I'd been digging on Overstock, eBay, and Amazon for other options... I looked at a few at Macys, Bloomingdales (yep, they sell bedding online!), and Lands End, but either the options were still really pricey, poor quality, or the wrong colors.  I wanted either navy, or a dark grey (black seemed more limiting since we have a lot of navy going on in here)...

So I decided to experiment with a little project.


I'd seen projects online where people had used grosgrain ribbon to trim out curtains, so I figured the same could be done with pillow cases.

I started by ordering some fairly inexpensive plain white euro sham pillow cases off of Overstock.  I ordered these ones in case you're interested. They look nice, but aren't the best quality to be honest. I don't really care since we're not sleeping on them, but I wouldn't recommend them for anything other than a decorative euro sham.

Once I got the shams in the mail, I went to the fabric store and bought 10 yards of their 1" cotton grosgrain ribbon.  Our euro pillows are 26", so I needed a minimum of 8 2/3 yards, and in case I messed up a bit, I wanted extra yardage.

A word of warning - do not go with a synthetic grosgrain ribbon.  When you iron it, it crinkles up, so be sure you pay the extra few dollars for the 100% cotton (learned that the hard way folks).


Anyway, the project was really simple - once I had the ribbon and the pillow shams, I got out my stitch witchery (iron on adhesive tape) and went to work ironing the pieces of ribbon on.

If I were to go back in time and do this again, I'd also invest in a REALLY sharp straight edge, and something to measure a perfect 45 degree angle for the angled cuts for each corner, but live and learn. I found that my sewing scissors weren't quite as sharp as I would have liked, so it was more difficult to get a perfectly clean cut on a 45 degree angle. A few of the corners aren't perfect, but its not that noticeable.

Live and learn.

Anyway, I still need to go back with a paintbrush and a dab of glue to all the cut edges to seal them and ensure they don't fray, but the project only took me about 45 minutes to iron everything down, and get it on the bed.  It also cost me maybe $80 total for all three pillows and the ribbon - SO much less than any other option, where the pillows ran close to $50 each.


I'm really happy with how it all turned out (clearly), and our bedroom just feels so much more finished. Like I said - a small change, but it's one more thing to check off the list!


Happy Monday!